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Saxon Dash Removal

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Saxon Dash Removal Empty Saxon Dash Removal

Post by Joltin Joe Wed Dec 01, 2021 2:19 pm

Has anyone removed their dash pad and dashboard? The CR Build Manual references how to install the gauges, but makes no mention of how to physically install the dash pad and dashboard; i.e., where and with what are they fastened, and in what order.

On my Saxon, there are no visible bolts or screws; and while the full-length oak dashboard itself is rock solid, the dash pad above it feels flimsy: it wiggles.
Oh, I'm sure I could stumble through this, but why work blindly when we have you guys!

Oh, yeah, in case I wasn't clear. I have the imitation BJ8 (Mk III)-style dashboard in blond oak (if it even matters). My ultimate goal here is to replace the CR dash with the Mk III original I just finished building.
So, Hotrod, Jerry, Steve, Bruce, what say you guys?

Joltin Joe

Posts : 75
Join date : 2021-10-02
Age : 74
Location : Vermont

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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills Wed Dec 01, 2021 6:40 pm

What's funny to me is what little things stick in my pea brain from assembling that area 20 years ago. I remember having the dash all hooked up and lying there across the cowl when i started it for the first time. I thought "what a silly way to attach it. Does not make it easy for future removal if needed." Oh well. Couldn't think of a better way at the time.
You have to remove the dash top which may require peeling back the glued on black vinyl. Also, a couple screws on each end of the cap by the wing windows. That will expose a 90-degree lip at the top of the dash. Remove the rear-view mirror. Then, you will find a row of screws and nuts that hold the wooden dash to the cowl. I just went out and felt up behind the dash where it meets the cowl. i can feel a few of the nuts and washers i put on all those years ago. I'm sure with a mirror and light, i could see them. Could not find a picture in the assembly manual, but looks pretty straight forward once you get to the lip.

Jerry & Lisa Mills

Posts : 226
Join date : 2015-03-25
Location : Glendale, Arizona

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Post by Joltin Joe Wed Dec 01, 2021 8:58 pm

Thanks, Jerry, much obliged. The folks I bought the car from in September had only recently spent $2,000+ on a stem-to-stern redo of the cockpit. Not sure why they did that, the car had 1200 miles on it when they bought it in 2013, and they only put on another 1100 (driven almost entirely by the lady of the house--her car).
Not my choice of color (a light beige I've never seen on any car, never mind a Healey). So, in all likelihood I'll be changing it back to good old British black. It's a shame, but there it is.

Again, thanks for the heads up.
You guys take care,
Joe

Joltin Joe

Posts : 75
Join date : 2021-10-02
Age : 74
Location : Vermont

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Post by Hotrod Wed Dec 01, 2021 9:20 pm

My dash pad was glued on with silicone, just like the rest of the car.  There was a Phillips head metal screw in each end of the pad.

The dash was attached to the body with pan head sheet metal screws driven through the fiberglass and into the wooden dash.

BTW - I totally agree on the British black interior.  Most original Healeys I've seen had that color and mine will, too.  My dash and console will definitely not be Healeyesque, though, but more aircraft inspired.
Hotrod
Hotrod

Posts : 823
Join date : 2014-06-17

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Post by Joltin Joe Thu Dec 02, 2021 2:34 pm

If you haven't already seen this car, google Austin Healey 6000 (yes, six-thousand). The car has your name all over it.
It's a bonified BJ8 with, as I said, HOTROD MIKE splattered stem to stern.

Soon as I install the new channel U-brushes in the passenger door window tracks, reinstall that window, regulator and door card, then fabricate and install the other 20 slats I just bought from Bruce, my next project will be the dash.
PROJECTS:
#1. passenger side window install
#2. grille slats install
#3. replace existing dash with refinished BJ8 burl walnut
#4. replace steering column
#5. swap out existing tires (205 70 14) and "wire basket" (i.e., "fake wire wheels") with the modern equivalent of 5.90 x 15 (165-185 70-80 15) and real threaded hubs/wire wheels (haven't decided on 48-60 spokes, but likely 60--for the reasons you listed earlier: torque concerns with a 230+ hp vs 148)

BTW re., the steering column electrics: I found a schematic showing how to operate the directional lights by the use of a simple toggle switch (single pole/dual throw).
I'd mount it in the NORMAL/OD slot in the dash).
As I'm sure you know, this system incorporates a single, two-prong "flasher" element.
Toggle switch is OFF in the center. Flip one direction: LEFT blinker, flip it the other: RIGHT (e.g.).
The flasher interrupts the circuit, thus, causes it to blink.
LIGHTS
Two dual filaments (1157) up front; two in the rear, plus two single filaments (1156)
Front:
L/R RUNNING/TURN SIGNAL (1157)
Rear:
L/R RUNNING/BRAKE (1157)
L/R TURN SIGNAL (1156)

That takes care of my TURN SIGNAL issue. Still haven't figured out the HAZARDS. Hopefully, you can help me with that one.

I ordered a foot-operated FORD dimmer switch, so dimmers is also a non-issue. If I'm not mistaken, all that leaves is the horn.
So, am I on the right track?
Thanks, my friend,
Joe

Joltin Joe

Posts : 75
Join date : 2021-10-02
Age : 74
Location : Vermont

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Post by AHSebring64 Fri Dec 03, 2021 5:33 pm

Here's a pic of my car with the dash removed to help clarify things for you. [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

AHSebring64

Posts : 22
Join date : 2018-11-04
Location : So Cal

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Post by Joltin Joe Fri Dec 03, 2021 10:26 pm

Thank you much, AH Sebring, I'll be adding a brace of my own. Appreciate the huss, take care,
Joe

Joltin Joe

Posts : 75
Join date : 2021-10-02
Age : 74
Location : Vermont

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