How to stop my Sebring 5000 from bottoming out so easily.

Hi, HotRod had some good information about coilovers to solve my problem of my Sebring 5000 bottoming out so easily. I like the ride height the way it is and so do want to try different leaf springs. Also , I would rather not go to the extent of installing a 3 link suspension. I assume that my only other option is adjustable shocks. Does anyone have any other solutions and if you have used adjustable shocks, what kind have you used (make and model). Thanks for the help.

GJ

Hey Gj, I'm not sure if it will work for a leaf spring setup, but for the back I run air shocks. You can simply blow them up to the height you need, no need to install a compressor or anything. Different leafs would go a long way as well.

For the front, look at getting progressive springs (lower coils are tighter than the upper ones). Gives you a softer spring rate at first then gets firmer if it compresses more on a big bump.

Just my two cents

David

Since Classic Roadsters had no way of knowing the exact combination of tires/wheels and other things that would ultimately be used in their kits, they most likely erred on the side of caution when setting the height of the bump stops.

It is possible that you could switch to a shorter bump stop in the rear.  You have to measure carefully to see where anything may hit.  This would include the 3rd member section of the rear end, the tires and the axle tubes. Also, look closely at things like exhaust and brake lines.  You might not gain a lot doing this, but even a 1/2" might be enough to lessen the impact of bottoming.

Companies like Energy Suspension sell several different styles and heights of polyurethane bump stops.   They have them down to about 1/2" thick and also have some that can be trimmed down in 1/4" progressions.

Like you, I have decided that the car looks better sitting lower and have experimented with dropping it as low as practical for my new suspension.  I was able to get a couple of inches lower without any interference issues, but my car is still under construction and I can make changes easily.  I will be going as far as shortening the steel mounts on the frame that the bump stops bolt to.

Once again, let me say be very careful if you go this route.  There is no way for me to know what things exactly on your car that could be impacted (literally, but no pun intended) by moving the bump stops. There are lots of bad things that could happen if you get it wrong, but if you want a decent ride with no bottoming and you want the car to sit lower, you will have to gain some clearance.

Hi gj,
Read both of your posts and would like to know what exactly is bottoming out.
If it's the stops hitting, then yes, exactly what Hotrod says.
If not, and you have a good spring shop nearby, they can be rebuilt to be stiffer without raising the height.
It's always a compromise of some kind.
I have the third link that Hodrod mentioned. It's welded to the top of the housing and pivots on a bracket by the brake handle. Seems to work OK, but I don't have drag slicks and don't have 500+ hp.
Not sure it's really needed during "normal" driving.

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for the reply. I'm still considering my options, but am leaning towards the stiffer spring solution you suggested.
Thanks again,
GJ