Suggestions for Replacements and Upgrading - Shocks and Brakes

Hi All,

Well, things didn't quite go as"Planned" at the Shop that was going to do
the Work for me.  
So, now I'm rethinking things and need some recommendations
for replacing things like the
***Front Shocks - they're leaking and I think they are Monroe's (yellow)
So what are y'all using or recommend ???  Also, not sure about the Rear's they
were replaced not long ago by the Previous Owner

I've been working on Bleeding the Brakes, which has been quite a task, probably not for
a lot of y'all but have to say it's def worn me out.  But will be finishing up later today , need
more brake fluid.  The Pedal goes down about 3/8-1/2 inch and then is "Rock Hard" ??? Not Power assisted . I've truly not driven it but about 1 mile so I don't know what to expect but was so excited/nervous to get it out of the shop where it "SAT" for 5 weeks with basically nothing being done.  I'll leave things there ;-)

Appreciate any thoughts, Ideas, Infor, or suggestions !!!  

Take Care, Be Safe, and Well,
Craig

I don't remember if you have a Saxon or MX, but, chapter 3 of the "Sebring MX/Saxon Introduction Manual" indicates that for an MX: Monroe Gasmatic # 5815 for the front and Gasmatic # 5876 for the rear. For a Saxon: Monroe #2118 for the front and # 2191 or #1168, depending on the Mustang II vs Pinto brackets used. I still have the Monroes that the original builder put on mine and haven't had to look for new ones yet.

Thanks AHSebring64,
I have the MX and Not sure what # is on there but they are
Yellow Monroe's and one is leaking badly and the other one looks
Just "OK" I thought I'd heard someone using KYB ??? and didn't know if they were better/worse/

Thanks !!!

Main advantage to KYB's is that they are gas charged.  the Monroe's are most likely not.  The high pressure gas helps prevent the oil in the shock from foaming.  This keeps the function of the shock more consistent.

Many options for brake upgrades.  You can spend a few hundred or several thousand.  If you have the original MII brakes they are 9" discs in front.  Upgrading to 11" rotors will add more braking power as long as you don't go with smaller calipers.  Many kits do.  Many budget kits will use metric GM calipers that actually have a smaller piston than the original MII calipers.

CPP has a big brake kit that uses 11" rotors and big GM calipers.  These will give a big boost in power.  However, as with all hot rodding, upgrading to big pistons will require upgrading the master cylinder.  More powerful front brakes should also be accompanied with an upgrade in the rear.

11" rotors should still allow 15" wheels.  If you want to upgrade to larger wheels and tires, then the sky's the limit.  6 piston calipers and 13" rotors will require 17-18" wheels and cost 2000 to 4000 dollars not counting wheels and tires.

As to bleeding, I have had the best luck with pressure bleeding.  This uses a special tool that allows brake fluid to be forced through the master cylinder with air pressure.  No pumping is required.  The best one man bleeding I have ever done.  It's all I use now for clutches and brakes. Vacuum bleeding tools are cheaper, but I have never had consistent results with them since the bleeder fittings were never made to resist vacuum.

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for the Reply and information. I've never really known what the difference was between regular shocks and "gas" shocks so I can see where that could help / make a difference.

I think I'm going to take the Advice of a Wise Old Bird ;-) and have the brakes system I have checked and if warranted new Drums/Shoes, or Rotors/Calipers/Pads and see how things stand after that. I would like to try to get as much stopping power as I can. Upgrading the size of Discs in the front might be a good thing for later on.

Hmmm well I have to say it was a little like one of the 3Three Stooges with my Brake Bleeding Adventure. I ended up with I think more Fluid in the Pump and on me than in the Catch Jug. I don't know what I was doing wrong of if it was defective, I think Operator Error would be the Assigned Cause if Investigated l;-) I did move to the Jug Method and that worked Great and I was able to run quite a bit of new fluid through the System.

I'd looked in the Pressure Pump method that look so neat but I have the Old Style Metal Oblong Master Cylinder tanks so not sure if they make an adapter for that. Cool Item and I can see where that would be so nice and easy.

One of the Guys even mentioned the "Speed Bleeders" which have to say I'd never heard of ..................all these new things !!!

I've reached out to a new Shop and Hopefully they will take on the MX and It's list of Projects. My latest couple of short driving trips just to try and reset the rear brakes had been interesting and I can certainly see that I'm going to have to get used to the MX and while I'm scared/respectful of it's power want to be able to enjoy that as well .

Thanks again, Always Appreciate the Help and Wisdom.

Take Care,
Craig