Transmission

Always have had a little trouble shifting in to reverse. Yesterday, almost did not make it. Anyone else had this issue and what adjustment was needed?

What engine and transmission do you have?

In my experience, which is limited compared with others on this forum, crunching into reverse can be caused by a input shaft that is still turning while the clutch is dumped. The continued rotation can be cause by bellhousing runout where the misalignment causes the tip of the input shaft to ride the side of the pilot bushing causing it to turn and consequently cause the crunch. Runout that exceeds 0.10* on a Muncie and 0.05* on a T5 will cause more problems than just the reverse crunch. The different tolerances between the Muncie and T5 and newer transmissions is that the Muncie input shaft rides in a ball bearing race which tolerates more misalignment, you can actually wiggle the input shaft of a blueprinted Muncie. T5's and others, run in, IIRC, a tapered needle bearing race. More precise, less tolerant of runout. T-5 transmissions and the like clearly state the maximum runout, as exceeding it with damage the unit and void warranties. A work around for afflicted Muncie pilots is to dump the clutch and hesitate for a couple of seconds before going for reverse. Often dumping the clutch, shifting into 1st and then into reverse provides a clean shift.
Assuming runout is at issue, and that you want to correct it, pull the transmission and clutch. The pilot bushing (should be non-magnetic oilite bronze) is probably sloppy by now and needs replacement. Reinstall the bell and tighten the bolts. Then use a magnetic dial indicator to measure the runout. If runout exists the next step is to pound out the bell housing locating dowel pins from the block and installing offset pins. RobbMc Performance sells pins of varying offsets and I have found them easy to use as they are expandable in width. You install them just wide enough to be able to turn easily, correct your runout and then expand them to lock in. This is all done with an Allen wrench. With other pins you have to pound them in to check and knock them out to turn. By trial and error with the dial indicator, you rotate the new pins so as to negate the misalignment. You Tube covers all these procedures. I had to do this on both my Healey at the time (T-5) and my current Midyear (Muncie).

Hey DrJ,
Great write up. Didn't know about the Allen head dowels. That sure is an aggravation saver.

When you said this -
"Often dumping the clutch, shifting into 1st and then into reverse provides a clean shift."
it brought back memories. Having had a few non-synchro 1st cars, did that a lot by going into 4th and then first. Worked great for that and reverse.

302 and T5. Thanks for the help, I’ll check it out.