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anti sway bar

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Post by AH1960 on Sun Jun 02, 2019 2:34 pm

what front anti sway bar does the sebring use.
AH1960
AH1960

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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Fri Jun 14, 2019 12:42 am

Mustang II is the common set up used on most every one built. I've never seen one in person that didn't use it. The earliest kits were build on VW platforms.

Lots of aftermarket suspension parts are available.

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Location : Portland, Oregon

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Post by AH1960 on Fri Jun 14, 2019 8:32 am

thanks for the information. it's a mustang II front end, but stock sway bar doesn't fit.
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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Fri Jun 14, 2019 12:49 pm

I'll look this weekend. Might have been supplied by Classic.

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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Sat Jun 15, 2019 12:59 am

Looked through all my paper work and manuals and sure enough, it was an option supplied by Classic.
There was also one for the rear. MX maybe ?
I got my kit second hand and unassembled. It was the deluxe kit with all the extras so it was already there along with the 3rd link option. I looked at it tonight and can jack it up to get pictures and basic measurements if you think it would help. It mounts to the very front cross bar and looks to be about 3/4" diameter. There is no picture of it in my 1989 assembly manual. There is however, a print in the addendums & templates envelope that shows the bracket and hiem joint connection to the lower a-arm.
It's faded and hard to read, but I'll see if my wife can scan and copy it. I can also look for any tags or other info on the bar.

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Post by AH1960 on Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:56 am

my car was not finished when I traded for it. I used a mustang II rear sway bar with modification. I have an aftermarket mustang II sway bar ordered hopefully it will fit,. Thanks again for the reply.
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Post by AH1960 on Wed Jun 19, 2019 5:42 pm

I found one on ebay for a street rod. it installed behind the front suspension. car now handles better with both anti sway bars.
AH1960
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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Wed Jun 19, 2019 10:41 pm

Glad to hear you got one to work.
Could you list the details while it's fresh in your head to help others in the future ?
I've not seen one that mounted from behind.

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Post by AH1960 on Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:33 pm

purchased on ebay from rodpartsdealer. add said universal pinto-mustang II, stock width 44".  I ran it above strut rods to   the stock mounts on lower arms. then drilled frame for the rubber mounts.  sorry no pictures, the site will not take them from my computer.
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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Sat Jun 29, 2019 1:17 am

this one ???
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Post by AH1960 on Sat Jun 29, 2019 12:41 pm

item number 142273615222.
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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Sun Jun 30, 2019 1:21 pm

Thanks. Great to know. 44" hole-to-hole.
Looks like what I have mounted in front.
My 351W has a front sump oil pan and could not be mounted behind the front suspension. Still nice to know that option for others.

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Post by johnhappley on Tue Dec 24, 2019 7:51 pm

Below are AH1960 photos of his reversed anti-sway bar installation.  Notice he bolted the mounts to the strut rod sub-frame behind the crossmember.  A little bit of twist is required.  The ends are linked to the lower A-arm stock U brackets.  These OEM U brackets can be reversed for a more vertical heim link mount.  The eBay item number is 142273615222. The last photo is from the front of the crossmember [see the steering tie rod].

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Post by johnhappley on Tue Feb 04, 2020 12:52 am

Although AH1960 gave me the idea of a rear cross member mounted sway bar [see above], I took a slightly different route.  I ordered eBay item number 254260117707 [60" wheelbase].  This is a Helix HEXSBK6.  But I only paid $87.67 because the eBay seller noticed I kept looking at it so he made an offer.  Which I took.  HOWEVER, it turned out to be too long by about 2 3/8" [44" stock].  So I should have ordered item 254256072661 which is shorter.  The perfect fit was 41 5/8" tip to tip.

I cut 1 3/16" off each end.  Helix drills/taps the end holes 2" deep so all I had to do was clean the bar ends up with a 3/8 NF tap.  Still plenty deep.  See photo of scrap.

These bars are 13/16" with the powder coat [puke green].  So just over 3/4" bare.

That's all for now...

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Post by johnhappley on Tue Feb 04, 2020 10:42 am

I'm going to publish the pictures now and do the explanation later.  The yellow captions may be a little difficult to read. If you click on any image, it opens another tab with the image slightly enlarged. MS Paint is hard to work with.

I tied/dangled conventional urethane mounts to the bar from Prothane to show an alternate mount.  The milk crates balanced the bar before I could get the bolts in.

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Post by johnhappley on Wed Feb 05, 2020 1:09 am

The angle iron bars above are 10" long and mounted 3 1/4" [bolt centerline] from the shock/coil tower welds AND are parallel to this vertical 1/8" sheet metal [see photo].  There are two holes drilled for the frame mounts and two holes for the pillow block mounts.  I cut the angle iron from an old bed frame.  Tough stuff.  When they extrude the hot steel through the dies, some contamination gets squeezed into the angle iron [slag].  When I hit one of these random hard spots, the drilling stops or the chop saw slows way down.  In order to finish about half the holes started on the drill press, I had to use a Dremel with a diamond encrusted bit.  BTW I used a 10" abrasive cut off wheel I found on eBay that was only 1/16" thick.  Cuts were made thin.

Clearances:
The sway bar ended up 1/2" from the front of the oil pan and 1/2" from the side of the lower A-Arm.  The downward angle you see of the bar arms is because the shocks are fully extended.  The A-Arms are maxed out down because the front end is on a jack.

Theory:
Sway bars were a very clever invention.  They were around before independent suspension even on solid axles.  They transfer the centrifugal load in a turn from one side of the vehicle to the other thus eliminating most body roll.  Front bars are generally more important than rear.  I think this is because of the steering and braking going into a turn.  But I can see that hard acceleration out of a turn would also require a rear bar.

AH1960 linked his sway bar to the stock factory mount OVER the lower A-Arm.  I linked UNDER the lower A-Arm.  I had to reverse the U bolt mount that secures the strut rod to do this.  The U bolt is pressed in with splines but can be hammered out on concrete on a metal block.  My frame mounts [pillow blocks] are wider than AH1960's sub-frame urethane mounts.

It should now be obvious that in a turn my inside tire is being pushed up and the outside tire pulled down relative to the frame/body by the BELOW A-Arm linked sway bar.  These two opposing forces will result in a frame/body that remains level.  AH1960's sway bar exerts the same forces on the frame/body but the push/pull on the bar is reversed.  Why?  Because he mounted ABOVE the A-Arm.  Does either linking method have an advantage?  Probably not.

I hope this saves someone else a few hours of design time with their sway bar project.
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