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bead trim fasteners

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bead trim fasteners Empty bead trim fasteners

Post by phydeaux on Fri Aug 02, 2019 9:24 am

i cannot find the specified package of 4-40 fasteners to fasten the trim bead to the body. can anyone tell me exactly what they are so i can go get some. Thank you

phydeaux

Posts : 18
Join date : 2016-03-01

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Post by phydeaux on Sun Aug 04, 2019 10:43 pm

i put 3/4 round head machine screws in with lots of locktite.... seemed to work ok

phydeaux

Posts : 18
Join date : 2016-03-01

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Post by Jerry & Lisa Mills on Fri Aug 09, 2019 11:05 pm

Damn, I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier.
I was short some and ended up buying a few with
larger heads. Had to file them to a "T" to fit the trim.
Thinking I may need to remove them some day for body repair or paint, I also used never-seize on the threads.
Where did you put the locktite ? I'd be a little worried you can't undo them if the standard heads, without the "T", spin in the trim.

Jerry & Lisa Mills

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Join date : 2015-03-25
Location : Portland, Oregon

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Post by Lurp3 on Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:51 am

I am going to repaint my car as the spider cracks have got to the point that it’s time. I did not build it so not sure how to remove the fender chrome trim. Also once removed can they be reinstalled or will they be brittle after all these years. When you order new ones are they a long solid piece or rolled up.

Lurp3

Posts : 31
Join date : 2019-04-30

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Post by Hotrod on Thu Aug 22, 2019 10:23 pm

They are long pieces.  The trim is aluminum and very soft, so be careful removing it.  Essentially, it is tubing that has a slot in it the full length.  My trim was fastened on with 4-40 screws and nuts.  Definitely don't roll it up. You will never get it straight and it would probably kink.

I had some trouble getting the nuts off.  The nuts were dug into the fiberglass and I had to take a socket and grind it thin on the open end to even get it to grip some of them.  They had also rusted after 25 or so years, which didn't help at all.  In the end, I had to resort to cutting many of them of close to the body with a pair of side cutters.  These were the ones that actually backed off enough to give me clearance before they locked up.  The really stubborn ones had to be ground off as they wouldn't budge without the screw turning in the trim.

I plan on coming up with different mounting system.  Something that doesn't rely on simple friction to keep the screw from turning.  That works ok on new stuff, but not so well after a few years of humidity and road grime.
Hotrod
Hotrod

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Post by Lurp3 on Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:40 am

Ok. So when the trim is off. Is the fender smooth or grooved. I was thinking of using a high bead 3/8 chrome adhesive trim with VHB tape. If there is a fender groove. This may not work.

Lurp3

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Post by Lurp3 on Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:42 am

Also. Approximately how many fasteners are there.

Lurp3

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Post by Hotrod on Fri Aug 23, 2019 10:58 am

There is a raised mold line under the trim.  This is left over from the separate mold parts needed to get the fenders and upper section properly formed.

This line could be sanded away.  I have seen pictures of Sebrings that had no trim.

I'm not sure gluing will work, although there are many new adhesives that I'm not aware of.  Keep in mind that whatever you attach it with might have to come off one day for repair or repaint.

As to number of fasteners.  I will have to wait until I go out to the shop today to count the holes.  I don't think there was a specified number.  You need enough to make sure the trim lays tight to the body.  

Also, some of the screws are VERY difficult to access, especially the ones near the windshield.  My car is pretty much a hull and I had a devil of a time getting to them.  I would hate to try to get to them with the body complete.
Hotrod
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Post by Hotrod on Fri Aug 23, 2019 3:14 pm

Looks like mine had 11 on one side and 12 on the other. They were spaced about 10 inches or so apart except near the ends where they were about 2 inches apart.
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